Article: Cosmetics

For the Washington DC area indie-rock band, see Make-Up (Band).

For other uses, see Cosmetic.

 

Closeup of a woman's eye while wearing makeup

 

Cosmetics or make-up are substances used to enhance the beauty of the human body. Cosmetics include lotions, powders, lipstick and many other types of products. Their use is widespread, especially among women in Western countries. The manufacture of cosmetics is currently dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that orginated in the early 20th century, but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different businesses.

History

The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage is found in Ancient Egypt around 4000 BC. The Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The Romans and Ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing mercury and often lead. In the western world, cosmetics were used throughout the medieval period, although their use was typically restricted to the upper classes. Cosmetics were also used in Persia and what is today the Middle East. After the rise of Islam, cosmetics were sometimes restricted, although Islam has no set prohibition against the use of cosmetics.

Cosmetics were widely used until the modern period. During some periods, cosmetic use was frowned upon. For example, in the 1800s, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup impolite. It was viewed as vulgar and something that was worn by actors and prostitutes.

By World War II, cosmetics had common application for all classes, and for the upper classes in nearly all societies.

In Japan, geishas wore lipstick made of crushed safflower petals to paint the eyebrows and edges of the eyes as well as the lips. Sticks of bintsuke wax, a softer version of the sumo wrestlers' hair wax, were used by geisha as a makeup base. White paste and powder colour the face and back; rouge contours the eye socket and defines the nose. Black paint colours the teeth for the ceremony when maiko (apprentice geisha) graduate and become independent.

As of 2006, the cosmetics manufacturing industry is dominated by a small number of multinationals that all originated in the early 20th century. Of the dominant firms, the oldest and the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Shueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 27.5% and Nestlé 26.4%, with the remaining 46.1% are publicly traded). The true market developers were the 1910s American trio Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein and Max Factor. These firms established the market and were augmented by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after.

Small independents, like semi-permanent cosmetics company Lip-Ink International, have attempted to break into the cosmetics market with unique products, but are largely shut out of the major retail outlets.

Types of cosmetics

Eyeshadow being applied before a wedding.

The various forms of makeup include:

• Lipstick, lip gloss, lip pencil, and Lip-Ink, used to colour the lips.

• Liquid foundation, used to colour the face, also for lightening and concealing flaws to produce an impression of health and youth. The coverage they provide can range from very sheer, to a full coverage.

• Cream foundation, which acts in the same way as liquid foundation, but provides a more full coverage.

• Powder, used to set the foundation, it helps absorb the oil from the skin, giving a matte finish.

• Rouge (blush or blusher), used to colour the cheeks and emphasize the cheekbones. This comes in powder, cream and gel forms.

• Bronzer, used to create a more tanned or sun-kissed look.

• Mascara, used to enhance the eyelashes.

• Eyeliner and eye shadow, used to colour and emphasize the eyelids (larger eyes compared to face is a sign of youth).

• Nail polish, used to colour the fingernails and toenails.

• Concealer, a type of thick opaque makeup used to cover pimples, various spots and inconsistencies in the skin.

• Cosmetic coloured contact lenses, used to change eye colour.

Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin care products. These include creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body, sunscreens and sunblock to protect the skin from damaging UV radiation, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.).

Cosmetics can also be described by the form of the product, as well as the area for application. Cosmetics can be liquid or cream emulsions; powders, both pressed and loose; dispersions; and anhydrous creams or sticks.

Chemical and surgical procedures can also be used for cosmetic effect. Many techniques, such as microdermabrasion and chemical or physical peels, remove the oldest, top layers of skin cells. The younger layers of skin left behind often appear more plump, youthful, and soft. Permanent application of pigments (tattooing) is also used cosmetically.

Ingredients

The Romans and ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing mercury.

The ingredients of modern cosmetics may also surprise those who use them: Lipstick, for example, can contain the shimmery substance of fish scales called "pearl essence". Pearl essence is obtained primarily from herring and is one of many by-products of large-scale commercial fish processing. This is rarely used due to the high cost and extreme fragility of this type of colorant. The primary source of the pearlescent shine used in lipsticks, eyeshadows, and blush is mica, a natural, mined mineral. The mica, which is translucent, is coated with a very thin layer of titanium dioxide. This coating causes color to appear through interference effects with the mica; varying the thickness of the titanium dioxide changes the color.[1]

The red color of lipstick can come from iron oxide (rust) or from organic pigments. Typically, the pigment is crushed very finely while being mixed with castor oil. This pigment mixture is then mixed with a wax base to form a finished lipstick. The red color of some eyeshadows is from the dye carmine, made from the crushed bodies of the cochineal insect. This is extremely expensive and is used as rarely as possible. Pure carmine dye is usually more expensive than gold.

Cosmetic colorants are highly regulated. In the US, the regulating body is the Food and Drug Administration. Each country or group of countries has their own regulatory agency that controls what can go into cosmetics. Many colorants in cosmetics are also used as food dyes.

Pearlescence of solid and liquid mixtures (eg. lipsticks, shampoos and liquid soaps) is achieved by adding a suspension of tiny flakes of a suitable material, often a wax, eg. glycol distearate.

See also

Wikimedia Commons has media related to:

Cosmetics

• Cosmeceutical
• Permanent makeup
• Testing cosmetics on animals